City Lights. Budapest Nights.
Danube River views
I’d always wanted to go to Budapest, and was lucky enough to be able to go at the end of August. The city is rich in history, has gorgeous architecture, and possibly some of the best food I’ve ever had. To get there, I flew out of Tampa with layovers in Minneapolis (hi hometown) and Amsterdam before finally arriving to my destination. Including layovers, the total flight time was just under 24 hours. Thankfully, the flight from Minneapolis to Amsterdam was an overnight haul so I could sleep. Here are a few of my favorite things.
Hotels:
I stayed at the Hotel Clark, an adults-only hotel on the Buda side of town. The hotel is right on the water, overlooking the Danube River. It’s also right next to the famous Széchenyi Chain Bridge that connects Buda in the western side of town to Pest on the east. It’s an unbeatable location that combines Hungarian hospitality with modern design. Once I arrived, I was welcomed with a glass of bubbly, and the delightful surprise of being upgraded to a room overlooking the Danube.
The night that I arrived, I’d made a dinner reservation at Tati, a farm-to-table restaurant in the Pest side of town. I found out about Tati through YouTube reviews, though it’s even recommended by the Michelin Guide. The restaurant brings to life dishes grown from their own farm on the outside of town. They offer classic Hungarian dishes as well as more modern fare. However, since it was my first time in Budapest (and Hungary!), I knew I wanted to try the goulash and chicken paprikash - two Hungarian classics. I recommend asking for the hot Hungarian paprika to add a little kick to your goulash. A little side note, Tati is beautiful, romantic and cozy on the inside. And the service was wonderful. I sat at the bar, and interestingly enough was sat next to a couple who were from my home state. Sometimes the farther you go, the more you find familiar.
To end the night, I wandered to the famous ruin bars. The most famous is Szimpla Kert which offers two floors of multiple bars, each with a different theme. Ruin bars were created from abandoned, dilapidated buildings, which is a unique way to preserve a building. Some are small, but others such as Szimpla Kert, are huge often featuring dance floors and lounges. Definitely worth the experience.
Historic Buda
Walk up Castle Hill to Buda Castle. It’s a historical castle and palace complex that used to be the home of Hungarian kings. You can take the furnicular, but I recommend walking so you don’t miss any of the views. It’s also best to go earlier in the day to avoid the crowds that will line up in throngs. You can buy tickets online prior to your visit, but I didn’t have any issues buying my ticket on the site.
The castle was first completed in 1926, though was severely damaged during the war. It’s since been rebuilt in a Baroque style, and currently houses the Hungarian National Gallery, the Budapest Historical Museum, and the National Széchényi Library. You could literally spend the entire day wandering around the castle grounds. Though, I would not miss out on St. Stephen’s Hall. Only a small group can enter the hall at a time, but it’s worth it. St. Stephen’s Hall is one of the most intricately designed rooms in Buda Castle. From the craftsmanship, furnishings, and decoration, it’s a beautiful room to see.
Fisherman’s Bastian and Matthias Church are nearby and a short walk from Buda Castle. Fisherman’s Bastian, a medieval fortress, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that offers a beautiful panorama of the city. I recommend visiting early in the morning to watch the sunrise over the city. Next door is Matthias Church, one of the most beautiful churches in Budapest. The church was used as a coronation church for Hungarian kings, and once served as a mosque by the Ottoman Turks. Today, it’s now a Catholic church that hosts masses, concerts, etc.
After exploring, I recommend visiting Ramazuri Bistronomy which sits in the square near Matthias Church. The food is fresh, the people watching is fantastic, and it’s a great way to rest your feet after a day of walking around historic Buda.
Pest
On the Pest side of the city, I wandered to Heroes’ Square on the far east side of Budapest. It was about an hour’s walk from my hotel, but what better way to explore a city than to walk around and get your steps. Heroes’ Square commemorates the 1,000 anniversary of the Magyar conquest of Hungary. Archangel Gabriel stands in the center of the square with the Seven chieftains of the Magyars set in bronze. It’s surrounded by the Museum of Fine Arts and the Palace of Arts. To get to Heroes’ Square, I walked down Andrassy Avenue, one of Budapest’s main shopping streets notably high-end retailers.
On my way back, I wandered into St. Stephen’s Basilica and climbed the 364 steps to the top. Here, you’ll find panoramic views of the city, which were breathtaking. If you’re able to, I highly recommend going to the top of the dome. Inside, the architecture was immaculate. I was blown away by the delicate details, especially the pulpit and the stained glass windows. St. Stephen’s Basilica is the largest church in Budapest, and perhaps the most important church in the city.
St. Stephen’s Basilica
Running through the city offers surreal views of the Danube River as well as the many statues placed throughout. Three days in Budapest weren’t enough, but I’ll be back soon.